Day 35 & 36: Across the Arctic circle

Day 35

Well that was certainly one hell of a day. What a roller-coaster. It started of on quite a bad note with me having had nightmares throughout the whole night and thus really not being in a good mood when getting out of bed. Pushed myself onto the road though, knowing that it would do me good. Which it did! Soon I found myself going at an incredible pace along a very quiet and comfy E75. Just eight kilometers in I crossed the Arctic circle, marking quite a big milestone for me. I was truly north now. And as if to underline that fact I came across the first reindeer on the road not later. It really didn’t care, staring me down in the middle of the street not budging what bit. I definitely back the attitude! Again this felt quite monumental to me. It all drove home the realization of just how far I’ve gotten. From there on, the reindeers kept popping up as I approached Kemijärvi at an incredible pace. I don’t know what happened, but despite there now being true climbs over longer periods of time, I hit a higher average speed than ever before. And so before I knew it I was already at the camping at not even half past one. My mood by then was delighted, having enjoyed the scenery, the reindeers, the progress and being extremely happy I could get my tent up before the rain that was supposed to already come down by now. And when I got to the spot where I could do just that, my mood went through the roof. It was the most gorgeous tent spot I could’ve imagined, making me just stand there for a while, mind blown. Unfortunately all the good mood took a nosedive after setting up tent. I had to restart my mobile phone and as it asked for my SIM card pin I stood there dumbfounded. I forgot it. I’ve remembered it for the last three years, last entered it not even a week ago but I just blanked out completely, only remembering three numbers that were in it in some constellation. Obviously there was no way for me to go look it up or contact everyone as my phone was locked and not usable. I entered the wrong one three times, locking the SIM and so now I required my PUK code. Panic set in and suddenly I felt very, very lonely and far away from anything I could anchor at. I had a rough idea where the card with the code was back home, so I begged the camp ground owners who all didn’t really speak English to use their phone so I could call my dad. I knew though that he was working and I’d have to wait until quite late in the evening before he’d be able to go look for the code at home. By that time, there was a good chance the reception would be close, Finland being one hour ahead of Switzerland and all. Unsurprisingly he didn’t pick up and my anxiety spiral kept going downhill. But eventually my dad called back and the camp ground owner actually went and looked for me to tell me and let me call back. Never was it that good to hear my dad’s voice. I explained my situation and he went home, telling me to call again in an hour. That hour I just prayed that he’d find the card with the code, as otherwise it could mean an early end to my endeavour. Since you’re reading this, you already know that he found it and all took a happy ending. I can’t describe the weight that fell of my shoulders. The following phone call with my dad – using my own phone – was a much needed mental reset and afterwards I felt a lot more calm, be it still quite shook. I would like to thank the camp ground owners of Kemijärvi Camping for their incredible kindness and will to help, letting me call to Switzerland many times, trying to reach my dad. I truly and deeply appreciate it and I should you ever find yourselves looking for a camp ground in Kemijärvi, or aren’t sure where to go camping, pay them a visit! It’s gorgeous and they deserve it! And of course, thank you Paps! You really are an anchor during this not always easy adventure!

  • Route: Rovaniemi – Kemijärvi
  • Distance covered: 86.59km
  • Total distance covered: 1877.89km

Day 36

Definitely a less stressful day. The weather has been wonderful and nothing scary happened. But boy was it a ride. The climbs today have been ridiculously steep, sometimes bringing me close to pushing my bike. My legs were definitely not happy today and I am thoroughly exhausted. The stretch of absolute hell and wreckage of a hell did not help and I am just relieved my bike survived all the pot holes and stones peeking out of the road. My poor backend though. It hurts. But yeah the scenery was gorgeous but nothing new or too extraordinary to me as it still is very similar to areas in Switzerland bar the bike bodies of water. Got really close to a reindeer during a break today though which was a surreal experience. In general that break was quite magical with the very unexpected hill of flowers. If only there weren’t the mosquitos that are legit a plague up here. It’s beyond any reason.

When arriving in Sodankylä I was just longing to get off the bike and rest. The receptionist of the camp ground was a wonderfully sweet woman, noting that I’m very far from home and we got chatting a bit. It really does fill me with pride to see their genuine awe when I mention the route that’s already past me. I really am doing something quite remarkable it seems. The pleasant surprises didn’t end here though as when I set up my tent I noticed the two bikers next to me talking German and one of the number plates being Swiss. I couldn’t actually believe it. How small is this world? During the pandemic I end up setting up my tent in a now truly remote area of Finland and there is a Swiss guy next to me? We got chatting and I can’t explain how good it was for me to just… Feel a bit of home for once, speaking German with someone next to me for what felt forever. They’re both – the other guy being German – proper nice and funny and before I knew it it was already past four. I called my grandma afterwards, having planned on doing so yesterday already and after all the amazing talks I now feel very much at ease and truly happy to just be.

  • Route: Kemijärvi – Suvanto – Sodankylä
  • Distance covered: 109.42km
  • Total distance covered: 1987.31km

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